Article by Londonist
The
first thing you need to know about good Malaysian and Singaporean food in
London is that you’re unlikely to find it in a Chinese takeaway. No matter what
the menu says, Singapore fried noodles are as Singaporean as ‘spag bol’ is Bolognese.
So
what makes food Malaysian or Singaporean? It's hard to come up with a single
definition that sums up the flavours of nasi lemak (coconut
rice served with fried anchovies and sambal
belacan), laksa(yellow egg noodles in a tangy curry soup) or beef
rendang (dark, caramelised beef stew). After all
they're influenced by almost every major Asian cuisine — Malay, Chinese (and
also the Straits Chinese), Indian, Indonesian, a
sprinkling of Thai even.
Geography
has a lot to do with this gastronomic confluence. In their early days, the
British developed both countries as a trading crossroads in the East and
early immigrants who flocked to the states of Malaya brought with them all
manner of foods and spices. Perhaps what comes closest to describing the
culinary culture of the region is the Malay word rojak, which means mixture (and
interestingly also lends its name to a
hodgepodge dish of fruit and vegetables coated in a thick peanut sauce).
Intrigued?
Here are some places to get your fill of Malaysian and Singaporean food in
London. And if you're around Trafalgar Square this Friday also check out Malaysia Night, a yearly smorgasbord of
Malaysian food and culture.
Rasa
Sayang, Chinatown
This Chinatown
stalwart does all the staples solidly — nasi lemak, beef
rendang and char
kway teow(wok-fried flat noodles in a dark soy sauce).
If you’re feeling adventurous, have a go at the Singapore chilli crab: that’s
juicy crab meat covered in a sweet, savoury, eggy sauce. And don’t be put off
by the name — it’s not that spicy.
C&R
Cafe, Chinatown
To
find this cramped, cafe-style joint you’ll
have to make your way down the narrow Rupert Court alley (on a busy day, you’ll
spot the queues first). Guardian food critic Jay Rayner has given a ringing endorsement to the seafood laksa
here, while Singaporean and Malaysian visitors tend to go for the humbler but
equally satisfying Hainanese chicken rice (tender poached chicken
served on a bed of pandan-flavoured rice).
Hainanese
chicken rice. Photo by Su-Lin on Flickr.
Sedap,
Old Street
This
decent spot is primarily a lunchtime place with a good
selection of Malaysian curries. Try the beef rendang or more unusual curry tumis which has a sharp kick of
tamarind.
Roti
King, Euston
Roti
canai is a type of Indian flatbread that’s served with a dipping
bowl of curry. Making it is an art in itself — a ball of dough is spun into a
thin, elastic disc that’s crisped up on a hot plate. If you’re lucky, the folks
at this
Malaysian-style greasy spoon will make your roti fresh in front
of you.
You
can get your roti plain, or stuffed with lamb or chicken. Or just for the sake
of it, in the shape of a cone that's drizzled with chocolate sauce. (Yes,
that’s actually a thing.)
Makan,
Notting Hill
More
a pit-stop than a restaurant, here you choose
from a selection of rice and curry dishes from the bar. Try the curry puffs
(curried chicken and potatoes in pastry) or ayam goreng (fried chicken).
Satay
House, Paddington
A
popular haunt amongst Malaysian and Singaporean students, Satay
House has a big menu of traditional dishes, from its speciality satay to mee goreng. Nasi
campur, an all-in-one dish of lamb, chicken or fish curry with steamed
rice, salted fish and vegetables is another crowd pleaser. (Also close by is Pak
Awie, which does similarly reliable comfort food.)
Sticky
Satay.
Nasi lemak: Malaysian breakfast.
Photo by Su-Lin on Flickr.
Malaysian
Deli, Brockley
If
you’re venturing south of the river, this
hole-in-the-wall eatery does good nasi lemak and beef rendang,
plus a very reasonable buffet.
Three
other tips...
If
you fancy a bit of heat, ask for sambal
belacan, a spicy chilli condiment made from shrimp
paste, to go with your food.
Teh
tarik, a sweet and frothy tea made with condensed or evaporated milk,
is another must-have.
And
if you have Malaysian friends, get them to take you to Malaysia Hall, a canteen
at the Malaysian High Commission that’s (sadly) only for Malaysian citizens.
